Hair & Makeup Designer Sarah Rubano Talks Turning Mia Goth Into Pearl

MotivationDecember 17, 2024

Transforming an actor into an unrecognizable character is no small feat, and Mia Goth’s Pearl makeup in the hit movie “Pearl” is a testament to that. Sarah Rubano, the talented hair and makeup designer behind the transformation, turned the young actress into a chilling elderly antagonist, creating one of the most talked-about makeovers in modern horror.

Rubano’s creative process, attention to detail, and collaboration with her team brought Pearl to life in a way that seamlessly blended artistry and storytelling.

The Artistry Behind Mia Goth’s Pearl Makeup

From the outset, Rubano’s involvement was crucial to the production. Known for her expertise in prosthetics and straight makeup, she worked closely with Weta Workshop to craft a design that captured Pearl’s eerie essence. Mia Goth’s Pearl makeup required a balance between subtle aging and grotesque exaggeration to reflect the character’s internal decay and obsession with youth.

Every wrinkle and blemish had to tell a story. And that was no easy feat!

GTN / The sculpting process began with meticulous planning, Rubano says. The makeup artist collaborated with sculptors to determine how each prosthetic piece would fit Goth’s face.

The prosthetics varied in thickness, with some areas being tissue-thin for seamless blending and others bulkier to create exaggerated features like Pearl’s pronounced chin and nose. Each piece was crafted to perfection before being split into 30 individual components that would later be applied to Goth’s face and body.

It was A ‘Grueling’ Process to Bring Pearl to Life

Creating Mia Goth’s Pearl makeup was no easy task. The application process was an intense, labor-intensive endeavor, often requiring over six hours to complete. Mid you, this was more than just makeup.

It was a transformation that demanded precision and teamwork. Rubano’s team worked like a well-choreographed dance troupe, with each member responsible for specific pieces to ensure consistency and efficiency.

On days when Goth was not in full makeup, a double would step in to maintain continuity for scenes featuring both Maxine and Pearl. Even then, Rubano’s team had to replicate the complex prosthetic design with the same level of detail. The layers of latex, silicone, and paint were meticulously applied.

Plus, every tiny line was checked under the camera’s harsh scrutiny to ensure the character’s authenticity.

The Challenges and Triumphs of Pearl’s Look

The biggest challenge in crafting Mia Goth’s Pearl makeup was ensuring the prosthetics did not hinder the actress’s performance. Goth had to emote through layers of latex, which meant the pieces needed to move naturally with her face. Rubano worked closely with the sculptors to ensure flexibility and comfort without compromising the visual impact.

The News / Pearl’s haunting expressions were as much a product of Goth’s acting as they were of the makeup design.

However, the process was not just physically demanding for Goth; it also tested Rubano’s endurance and that of her team. Six-hour application sessions, followed by hours of shooting, required patience and perseverance. Despite the grueling schedule, the result was a seamless portrayal of Pearl that felt organic and utterly terrifying.

Pearl’s Makeup as a Narrative Tool

Beyond its technical brilliance, Mia Goth’s Pearl makeup served as a powerful narrative device. Pearl’s grotesque, aged appearance symbolized her envy of Maxine’s youth and beauty. The prosthetics amplified this theme, making Pearl’s longing and bitterness palpable. Every detail of the makeup – from the hollow cheeks to the sagging skin – reflected her deteriorating mental state and obsession with reclaiming her lost youth.

Thus, this transformation also heightened the contrast between Goth’s two characters, reinforcing the duality central to the story. Maxine’s fresh-faced beauty and Pearl’s decayed visage visually represented the film’s themes of ambition and decline. Rubano’s work bridged the gap between character design and storytelling, elevating the movie’s impact.